6
Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc Massif, SW Ridge "Arete des Cosmiques" II
7
Difficulty: PD+ / AD (rocks: 3c/4a)
15
Grossglockner over standard Heiligenblut route:
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Ice: 35-40 degree steep slope
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Rocks: II (UIAA), 5.4 (YDS)
19
Shareck 3123m (Kolm-Sangurn)
20
Mittlerer Baerenkopf 3187m (Oberwald hutte)
21
Bilu 3371, Taroko, Taiwan
29
Ice: 45-55 degree steep slope
32
Марджанишвили (2а: юго-восточный склон, 2б: южный гребень)
33
Мачхапара (2а: юго-западный гребень)
36
Cerro Guaneguane, Putre (5.000m)
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Cerro Millagro, Putre (5.000m)
40
Breithorn (F+ 35 degree snow slope, 4165m)
46
Straightforward, possibly a glacial approach, snow and ice will often
48
PD Peu Difficile (Not very difficult)
49
Snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Glaciers are more complex,
50
scrambling is harder, descent may involve rappelling. More objective
52
AD Assez Difficile (Fairly Difficult)
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Fairly hard, snow and ice at an angle of 45-65 degrees, rock climbing
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up to UIAA grade III, but not sustained, belayed climbing in addition
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to a large amount of exposed but easier terrain. Significant objective
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D difficile (difficult)
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ard, more serious with rock climbing at IV and V, snow and ice slopes
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at 50-70 degrees. Routes may be long and sustained or harder but
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shorter. Serious objective hazards.
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TD tres difficile (very difficult)
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Very hard, routes at this grades are serious undertakings with high
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level of objective danger. Sustained snow and ice at an angle of 65-80
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degrees, rock climbing at grade V and VI with possible aid, very long
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sections of hard climbing.
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ED* Extremement difficile (extremely difficult)
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Vertical ice slopes and rock climbing up to VI to VIII, with possible
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ABO Extremely difficult as well as being dangerous
75
1B Easy ascent of a peak between 2000-5000 m over rocks, with sections of
76
snow and ice or mixed ground
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Difficulty: F/PD, I/II
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2A Ascent of more than 500 m on a peak between 2000-6000 m or traverses at
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this height on rocks, snow or ice with rock pitches of up to II, and/or
80
snow and ice sections of up to 100 m of II
82
2B Short sections of grade III rock or ice. Some pitons for belaying.
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Difficulty: PD+, II/III
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3A 2500-6500 m, route length up to 600 m with long passages of II on rock
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3B Difficulties might include rock pitches of 20-30 m or more and snow and
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ice sections of 200-300 m of difficulty III, or shorter passages of IV.
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Difficulty: AD+/D-, III/IV
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4A 2500-7000 m, at least 600 m. Includes 20-50 m rock pitches of IV, or
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snow and ice sections of 200-300 m or more of IV. The route might take
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6-8 hours or more and require pitons belays.
94
4B Rocks 40-80 m of IV, or short passages of V, and snow and ice sections
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of 300-400 m or more of IV. The route would normally take 8-10 hours or
96
more and require the insertion of 8-10 pitons or more for belaying.
97
Difficulty: D+/TD-, IV/V
98
5A 3000-7500m, >= 600m. Long rock sections of III-IV with some pitches of
99
V, or snow and ice sections of 300-400 m or more of V. The route could
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take 10-15 hours or more and would require the insertion of 20-40
101
pitons or more for belaying.
103
5B >= 700m. 30-50 pitons or more for belaying
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Difficulty: TD+/ED, V/VI
105
6A >=3600m, >=800m. Sustained difficulty with an average grade of IV-V and
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pitches of 20 m or more of VI. The route would take 40-50 hours and
107
require the insertion of 100-150 pitons or more for belaying.
108
Difficulty: ED/ED+, VI
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6B >=4500m, >=1000m. Sustained difficulty of pitches at or over grade V.
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The route would take more than 48 hours to complete. Insertion of more
111
than 250 belaying points.
112
Difficulty: >=ED3, VII
114
Rock Climbing (UIAA,French,USA/YDS)
116
I(1,5.1) The hands are needed to support balance (no rope).
117
II(2,5.2) You progress with simple foot and hand combinations. Real "3
118
fixed points" climbing, where you guard against a fall due to
119
loose holds by only moving one limb at a time.
120
III(2,5.3) Intermediate protection recommended. Vertical places or
121
overhangs with good hand holds already require some strength.
122
Even practiced climbers will use a rope!
123
IV(3,5.5) Considerable climbing experience necessary. Longer pitches
124
require several pieces of protection.
125
V(4,5.7) Increasing number of protection pieces. A higher level of
126
physical fitness is required. Climbing technique and experience
128
VI(6a,5.9) Climbing requires above average ability and physical fitness.
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High amount of exposure with few holds. Usually requires good
130
conditions for success. Smallest holds require exceptional
131
strength and sense of balance. Over long sections protection
132
placement not feasible.
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